Category · 23 products

Mouses

Lightweight gaming and everyday mice - high-accuracy optical sensors, fast polling and low-latency wired or wireless connections. Shapes and weights to suit claw, palm and fingertip grips, from budget picks to flagship competitive mice.

Buying guide

How to choose a gaming mouse

Weight and shape decide more than any number on the box. Most competitive players now land between 45g and 65g, because a lighter mouse is easier to stop precisely and less tiring over a long session - but a very light shell can feel unstable if your grip is heavy. Measure your hand from the wrist crease to the tip of your middle finger: under 17cm suits a small symmetrical shape, 17 to 19cm is the mainstream size most models target, and above 19cm wants a larger ergonomic shell with a filled-out back.

Sensors are no longer the deciding factor

Every mouse we stock tracks accurately at the speeds a human hand can produce. Peak DPI figures of 26,000 or 42,000 are marketing headroom - almost everyone plays between 400 and 1,600 DPI. What still varies is the sensor's maximum tracking speed, quoted in IPS: 400 IPS and above will not lose the cursor on a low-sensitivity flick, whereas budget sensors around 200 IPS can spin out if you play at 400 DPI with large arm movements.

Wired, 2.4GHz or Bluetooth

A 2.4GHz dongle is now as fast as a cable for any practical purpose, so wireless is the default recommendation for gaming. Bluetooth is the third mode on most tri-mode mice and it exists for laptops and tablets, not for games - its latency is far higher and it fluctuates. Choose wired only if you want the lowest price for a given sensor, or you would rather never think about charging.

Switches and polling rate

Optical switches register a click by breaking a beam of light instead of closing a metal contact, so they cannot develop the double-click fault that eventually kills many mechanical switches, and they are rated for far more clicks. Mechanical switches from Huano or Kailh still feel crisper to some players. Polling rate is how often the mouse reports its position: 1,000Hz is smooth and is all most monitors can use, while 4,000Hz and 8,000Hz modes are only worth chasing on a 240Hz-or-faster display and they drain a wireless battery quickly.

Buying in Egypt

Every mouse listed here is a genuine unit with 14-day cover against product defects, and you can pay cash on delivery. Stock moves quickly on the Attack Shark and ATK lines in particular, so treat the live listing as the accurate one.

Key terms, explained
DPI
Dots per inch - how far the cursor travels per inch of mouse movement. It is a sensitivity setting, not a quality rating. Most players use 400 to 1,600 DPI and adjust in-game sensitivity from there.
Polling rate
How many times per second the mouse reports to the PC, in Hz. 1,000Hz means one report every millisecond. Higher modes such as 4,000Hz and 8,000Hz shave a fraction off input delay and cost battery life.
IPS
Inches per second - the fastest hand movement the sensor can still track without losing position. The figure matters most at low DPI, where flicks involve large physical movements.
Optical switch
A click registered by breaking a light beam rather than closing a metal contact. Immune to the double-click fault caused by contact wear, and usually rated for 60 to 100 million clicks.
Tri-mode
A mouse that connects three ways - 2.4GHz through its own dongle, Bluetooth, and a USB cable. Use the dongle for games and Bluetooth for a second device.
PTFE feet
Skates made of virgin PTFE. They glide with less friction than generic plastic and are the cheapest worthwhile upgrade on any mouse once the originals wear down.
Onboard memory
Storage inside the mouse for DPI steps, button mappings and lighting, so your settings survive on a PC with no software installed.
Lift-off distance
The height at which the sensor stops tracking as you pick the mouse up. A low setting keeps the cursor still while you reposition, which matters at low sensitivity.
FAQ
What weight should I look for in a gaming mouse?

Between 45g and 65g suits most players: light enough to stop precisely, heavy enough to feel controlled. Below 45g the shell usually relies on cut-outs or carbon fibre and feels very different, so handle one before committing. If you rest your whole palm and move mainly from the wrist, anything up to 80g stays comfortable.

Is a wireless mouse slower than a wired one?

Not over a 2.4GHz dongle. The difference is well under a millisecond and no player can feel it. Bluetooth is another matter - its latency is much higher and it fluctuates, so keep it for laptops and office work rather than games.

Do I need 8,000Hz polling?

Only with a 240Hz or faster monitor and a CPU that has headroom to spare. At 8,000Hz the mouse sends eight times the data, which raises CPU load and cuts wireless battery life sharply. 1,000Hz is the sensible default.

Optical or mechanical switches - which lasts longer?

Optical, clearly. With no metal contacts to wear there is no double-click fault, and ratings of 60 to 100 million clicks are normal against roughly 20 million for many mechanical switches. Mechanical switches still win on click feel for some people.

Is a higher DPI better?

No. DPI is a sensitivity setting, and figures above about 3,200 exist purely as headroom. Nearly every competitive player sits between 400 and 1,600 DPI and fine-tunes sensitivity inside the game.

How do I know which size fits my hand?

Measure from your wrist crease to the tip of your middle finger. Under 17cm points to a small symmetrical shape, 17 to 19cm fits the mainstream sizes, and over 19cm is happier on a large ergonomic shell. Grip style matters too - claw and fingertip grips suit shorter, flatter mice.

Can I replace the mouse feet?

Yes, and it is the cheapest way to make an older mouse feel new. Peel the originals off, clean the residue with isopropyl alcohol, and fit PTFE replacements cut for your model.

Do these mice work on a Mac?

All of them work as a standard mouse on macOS over USB, 2.4GHz or Bluetooth. The configuration software is usually Windows-only, so set your DPI steps and button mappings on a PC first and let onboard memory carry them across.